Ilú Obá de Min (Carnival Special 1)

So the carnival is here and it would be a sacrilege not to celebrate it. Strangely enough, not all Brazilians sport this annual revelry and, sadly, that includes my boyfriend. The main reason, according to him and many of his compatriots, is that it is not what it used to be, the highly institutionalised parade at the sambadrome topping the list. I have heard quite a few people complain about the quality of today’s enredos (samba theme songs), which actually qualifies for a separate post, as well as about extreme nudity which seems to be prevalent among the female samba dancers these days. Let’s face it, the samba costumes have never been prissy, except maybe for the allegorical fantasias*, but I have to admit that those plastic boobs sticking out a mile do ruin the whole thing. Revealing – yes, sexy – yes, slutty – no. Unfortunately, the latter has become the new chic to some.

Source: http://g1.globo.com/sao-paulo/carnaval/2012/noticia/2012/02/quero-causar-abafar-no-carnaval-vale-tudo-diz-vice-miss-bumbum.html

Despite the above mentioned downsides, I still want to experience the carnival as it is, since I can’t magically teleport myself back in time to enjoy its magnificent past. Nor do I have any comparison. I may claim to have been a Brazilian in my previous life, but that somehow doesn’t empower me to remember the original beauty of the greatest party on Earth. But if you don’t have what you want, want what you have. And what there is plenty of in São Paulo are the blocos or mini-parades not confined to the rigid concrete space of sambadrome, but allowed to freely roam the streets. Sure, they’re not as lavish or impressive as the main parade, but neither as costly (they’re free!) and way more authentic!

Last night I saw Ilú Obá de Min, a bloco devoted to exploring the Afro-Brazilian heritage, so the dancers, conveniently using stilts (conveniently – because at least you could see them from the crowd!), represented various African Orixas; deities that correspond to various forces of nature and whose archetypes are manifestations of these forces.** You could see, for example, Oxalá – the father of spiritual purity and pure light:

Good fun in a crowd that at times became too dense, but never stopped jumping and enjoying the vibe. Here’s a taste of the night and I’m off to another bloco....

There's another video here: http://youtu.be/fcKyuvBmrlg - check it out!
(can't seem to be able to include a miniature)

*the fancy costumes representing various themes
** read more about Orixas: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orisha

To-do list

I had another dream that I went back to Europe. No, no, no, it can’t be, I’m definitely still in Brazil! – I thought soberly, my mind still sleeping. Is it my subconscious poking me?  The first thing I did when I woke up was grab a pen and some paper. Number one: Carnival. Ha, that’s what it’s all about! I just can’t imagine being in Brazil at this time of the year and not taking part in the biggest party on earth. Last year’s visit to Rio when, having seen all the preparations and the frenzy at Sapucaí*, I had to pack my bags and fly back to London (to teach my otherwise wonderful students) was painful enough. As I’m a member of a samba school in London, I see it almost as my obligation to get some first-hand experience at the roots of this whole madness. Trouble is, I don’t have the ticket yet, the main reason being I’m still hesitating between staying in São Paulo (acceptable) or going to Rio (ideal). The second option would mean using up probably all my savings, IF I manage to find a place to stay in Rio at all. I have contacted all my friends there asking for help and some floor space, but they either skilfully evaded my request or opted for “I’m-too-busy-to-reply” attitude. Thanks guys. Well, I guess I’ll just leave it till the last minute. Any useful comments or advice welcome.

Number two: samba school rehearsals. I just can’t seem to let it go, can I. Musically, carnival samba is not the highest form of art, I admit (and foresee a wave of protests), given that you can’t always understand what the puxadores** are singing and most enredos** are rather repetitive. The truth is, however, that this form of samba irradiates so much energy that your hair stand on ends at the first beats of the (many) drums, your hips start to shake un- or controllably and a stream of electricity spirals around your body enveloping it in an almost sensual pleasure. At least that’s my experience (from London, which doesn’t count, and Mangueira last year in Rio). Apparently, those rehearsals can be greater fun that the parade itself, as they allow for a more hands-on participation. Well, I can’t compare, knowing only one side, and I definitely do not intend to have my hands on anybody...

Number three: blocos of street carnival. This is getting boring. In the weeks preceding the carnival, revellers can join dozens of street parties, less ostentatiously glamorous and more relaxed than the samba schools. Well, what can I say. I’m going to jump on the bandwagon and if you happen to be in São Paulo, you can join me:

http://www.timeout.com.br/sao-paulo/en/aroundtown/events/569/academicos-do-baixo-augusta

Number four: the beach. Finally changed the topic. What?? You still haven’t been to one?! Don’t ask. Let’s just say it wasn’t my priority. No bikini shots planned either.

Number five: anything that springs up and is worth my time (and money). I really don’t want to bore you with my never-ending wishlist.

*Sambadrome Marquês de Sapucaí or simply Sambadrome where all the samba school parade at the carnival in Rio.

** singers singing samba enredo – the carnival theme song