That samba train has really taken off! Stopping at various more or less glamorous venues around São Paulo. And it looks like it’s an express train as I go to shows almost every day! No remorse. No sooner had the sounds of pandeiro stopped ringing in my head (not least because I got one to practise in my “free time”) than we* were clinking beer bottles at Traço de União. (http://tracodeuniao.com.br/) A more glamorous venue, if you want to know; more airy, with a proper stage for the artists and... a no-flip-flops policy. Much to my disappointment as I can’t seem to part with my havaianas.** Good job we knew in advance.
There were a few people performing that night, including Deyse do Banjo (because she plays banjo***), Carllão Maneiro and, again, Aldo Bueno, providing the crowd with a good dose of samba rhythms.
With only a few hours’ sleep, we dragged ourselves out of bed the next day to see roda de choro at a music shop round the corner. Every Saturday morning, the shop Contemporânea, hosts a gathering of vintage musicians (the guitarist is 85 years old!), the crème de la crème of the local traditional music scene. As in every roda, they switch places and instruments to play choro, as well as samba. Choro is a popular music (largely) instrumental style, originating in the 19th century. You can read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choro, but don’t take wikipedia’s word for certain as I have heard from a trustworthy source that it was actually born in Argentina, not Brazil. Leaving this debate aside, the weekly event is truly unmissable. A few wooden benches in the shop’s back room, walls adorned with drawings portraits of great choro masters and faded pictures of them playing with friends in that very shop.
With only a few hours’ sleep, we dragged ourselves out of bed the next day to see roda de choro at a music shop round the corner. Every Saturday morning, the shop Contemporânea, hosts a gathering of vintage musicians (the guitarist is 85 years old!), the crème de la crème of the local traditional music scene. As in every roda, they switch places and instruments to play choro, as well as samba. Choro is a popular music (largely) instrumental style, originating in the 19th century. You can read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choro, but don’t take wikipedia’s word for certain as I have heard from a trustworthy source that it was actually born in Argentina, not Brazil. Leaving this debate aside, the weekly event is truly unmissable. A few wooden benches in the shop’s back room, walls adorned with drawings portraits of great choro masters and faded pictures of them playing with friends in that very shop.
By midday there’s barely room to sit, but as there seems to be a roda of the audience as well, I eventually manage to squeeze in. And the most authentic sounds of Brazil’s tradition start to seep into my ear, raising the hair on my skin and silencing my tongue. I dare not breathe fully in case I let this air of emotion out too soon. I survey the room. Senile gentlemen share the space with young fathers who decided their sons needed a more sophisticated musical education. Mature ladies smile at the mesmerized tourists whose shaking hands try to grasp every moment of greatness. After a few pieces, my initial stupor lets go and my body begins to sway rhythmically. Hands start to clap and don’t stop until the show’s over two hours later. OK, I do take breaks. For filming.
*my BF and I, and a few other jolly people
**the most popular brand of flip-flops, or chinelo, in Brazil.
***you might want to look this one up for yourselves, eh?
**the most popular brand of flip-flops, or chinelo, in Brazil.
***you might want to look this one up for yourselves, eh?
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